Favourite Oaxacan Antojitos

Antojitos. Bocaditas. Snacks. However you want to call them, a stay in Oaxaca city is never complete without hitting a few places for my favourites. 

The zocalo, a restful place shaded by laurel trees is lined on two sides by cafes where you can sit and ponder over margaritas while people watching. 

The cafe at the far end, past the Asador Vasco restaurant, is where I find the best little bites: flash-roasted peanuts with whole roasted chile de arbol and halved heads of garlic sticky and caramelized. Perfectly salted, it pairs beautifully with a plate of delicately sweet pickled vegetables. The standard here is a mix of jalapenos, carrots and onions. They're a great accompaniment with a torta cubana, but equally enjoyable as is with maybe a margarita for good measure. 

During the Christmas season, street stalls are set up throughout the centro historico where you can enjoy a dish, quesadilla con flor de calabaza y epazote, one that started my love affair with Oaxacan food many years ago. 

A large size corn tortilla is made to order. The masa is first rolled and formed into a circle, pressed into the tortilla press and laid down on a hot comal. 

Then a layer of fresh squash blossoms followed by big leaves of pungent epazote, and shreds of Oaxacan string cheese called quesillo. 

Once set, the tortilla is folded in half by expert hands, the edges sealed with a dabbing of water.


Three types of salsa stand at the ready.
A beautiful thing. Ready to eat.