Tuesday, August 9, 2011

Chicken? Again?

Isn't evolution wonderful? Not the fact that we're now walking upright and the hairiness has abated - waxing keeps my eyebrows in check! - but the way a recipe can morph and adapt to suit a mood or the ingredients you have on hand.
I regularly use recipes as a springboard for cooking without the need of running out for an obscure or expensive ingredient that I'm more than likely not going to use on a regular basis. Risotto is a classic example. Get the basic recipe down and damn near anything can be added to that Italian comfort dish.
On the weekend, I bought a series of vintage Time-Life Cookbooks, called The Good Cook. Compiled in the late 1970s by the late and influential Richard Olney, the books are brilliantly illustrated and filled with inspiring recipes with many old school classics that are experiencing a renaissance.

Flipping through the books and craving chicken for dinner, I took a shine to an exotic sounding recipe called Kubab Chicken.

Credited to Elizabeth David, who adapted it from an Indian recipe found in an obscure cookbook, Indian Domestic Economy and Receipt Book published in Madras in 1850, the ingredients called for were things I had on hand. Sort of.
While the recipe asked for a whole chicken, I opted for my favourite economy cut, chicken leg with back attached. The butter requested was subbed for olive oil, and I added garlic to the roster of spices required: ginger, cloves, cardamom, black peppercorns, salt and lemon, ground in a mortar and pestle. I kind of took it from its Indian roots with a quick dip into the Mediterranean.


Hits of lemon juice and olive oil whipped it into a cohesive mass ready for marinating the chicken.

The recipe is unique in that it requests that the chicken skin be pulled back to make room for a slathering of the marinade and replaced to marinate for a couple of hours.

A quick searing in olive oil, and transfer to a 350 degree oven ....

.... where roasting and caramelizing works its magic. While the recipe requested lemons be served on the side, I added them to the pan to roast. I just love roasted lemons, they add a crispy, sour and citrusy note that is brilliant in this lovely rendition of recipe evolution.

Other possible life paths for this recipe:
Forgo the lemon, butter or olive oil and add yogurt to the marinade for a decidedly Indian flavour. Grill the chicken once it marinates overnight.
Vary the spice mixture, riffing on a garam masala by omitting the ginger and cloves, using cinnamon, saffron, whole cardamom and a little ground ginger.

Monday, August 8, 2011

When Life Hands You Lemons....

Every year, my enthusiasm and anticipation of the yearly garden starts the same. Trips for sea soil, digging out the compost, buying seeds and mapping out where the plants should go for maximum sun, it all seems so promising. But this year has been the most challenging to date. What with slugs and the coldest weather on record, gardening has become a disheartening task, one that's given me new respect for our local farmers.
Wrapped in a non-seasonal sweater and trying to look beyond the pathetic-ness of it all, I've harvested our crop of fava beans - eight pods in total - what's left of the peas - around six or seven - and a few mixed pole beans, to "celebrate" our summer harvest.

Rumagging through the freezer, I found a batch of spot prawns to add to the mix, and with paella in mind, I made a risotto.

Saffron was soaked in hot water, and onions and arborio rice were sauteed in olive oil. A splash of vermouth, stir, add saffron and doses of hot stock, added in increments.

When the rice was almost al dente, I added the spot prawns and beans. Then the favas and peas and a chopped mix of garden mint and lemon zest. Salt to taste and a few hot red chile peppers for kick and some sliced up lomo made by chef Edward Tuson of Sooke's Edge restaurant.

Hey summer, here's mud in your eye.